Choice of plants for the British Natural water garden pond
Here is a range of typical and indigenous water plants that would be suitable to establish in new conservation ponds or lakes. There are a few other reeds and rushes that one may commonly come across, but in a domestic situation or in an area where one might want to exercise some control then these might get out of control or run rampant. Where I feel the plant deserves particular consideration because of its attractiveness and reserved behaviour I have marked it with a *.
If I feel it is constantly on the verge of misbehaviour and should only be considered for the larger lakeside I have marked the plant with a !.
Plants that are not really indigenous but are firmly established in the country I have marked ?.
1. Small Bankside plants and emergent plants i.e. small marginal plants that could be considered as ground cover around the waters edge and in the water itself, blending the margins of the pond with the outside landscape and blurring the waters edge.
Caltha palustris (King cup) *. The happy bright yellow clarion of spring in the water garden.
Marsh marigold, Caltha palustris.
Cotula coronipifolia (Golden Buttons) ? An annual that can easily disappear with too much competition.
Golden button Lysimachia nummularia (Creeping Jenny). Indigenous in its green leafed form, but also available as a bright yellow leaved sport.
Mentha aquatica (Water mint) ! A plant that never stays where it is planted: it pops up in the most unexpected and least wanted places, then refuses to go away.
(/PIC on Disc if required: Fighting it out in Somerset, the Water Mint can take on the toughest opposition.)
Menyanthes trifoliata (Bog bean) Not for very shallow margins.
Mimulus guttatus/luteus (Monkey musk) * It seems to have disappeared at the end of the season but hopefully it has managed to seed itself everywhere
Myosotis palustris (Water Forget-me-Not) * It is a perennial in its true water form and also manages to seeds itself everywhere.
Water Forget-me-Not, Myosotis palustris, at Lady Farm, Chelwood, Somerset.
Potentilla palustris (Marsh cinquefoil)(!) Rampant in certain circumstances where it gets light whilst running around through other plants.
Veronica beccabunga (Brooklime). Like what says in its name, it seems to happiest in damp places where there is constant moving water, although it will do in the pool margins if there is not too much competition.
2. Larger plants, exclusively emergent i.e. marginals up to their 'necks' in water.
Acorus calamus (Sweet Flag)(*) The variegated version is less vigorous and adds a splash of colour amongst the plain green foliage from early early spring.
The variegated form of sweet flag, Acorus calamus variegates.
Alisma plantago-aquatica (Great Water Plantain). If you let it seed it can be a problem if dont like water plantain.
A tiny flower on the great water plantain being visited by a hoverfly. The equally tiny seed heads contain the minimum of 40 tiny flat seeds. There are hundred of flowers and thus seed heads per plant.
Butomus umbellatus (Flowering Rush) * Also called the Pride of the Thames, it loves ponds and river banks. Every water garden should have some.
Flowering rush, Butomus umbellatus.
Carex riparia (Great Pond Sedge) ! Carex pendula is more ornamental but those seed heads still need a careful eye.
Carex pendula. Cyperus longus (Sweet Galingale) (!) This plant can be misbehaved if it is allowed to get to large, but it in manageable clumps it has grace that adds a fluid movement to an otherwise static scene.
Cyperus longus. Eriophorum angustifolium (Cotton grass) Once this plant provided stuffing for mattresses.
Eriophorum angustifolium (Cotton grass)
Glyceria maxima (Reed Sweet Grass) ! Even the variegated form can be rampant.
Iris pseudacorus (Yellow Flag)(*) A must for every water garden but dont turn your back on it for too long.
Lythrum salicaria (purple Loosestrife) * Can be tenacious if well established. (!) A problem plant in the USA
Juncus effussus (Soft rush) ! Once used by the poor for making rush lamps, you tell if it is the soft rush as opposed to the hard rush by whether the pith within the leaf is continuous or not.
The soft rush, Juncus effusus.
Phalaris arundinacea (Reed Canary Grass) ! Its common name is gardeners garters.
Phragmites australis (Common or Norfolk reed) !! A noble and useful plant, but watch its bad habits.
Ranunculus lingua Grandiflora (Greater Spearwort)
Ranunculus flammula (Spearwort or Water Buttercup). The true water buttercup is an oxygenating weed that loves streams and is referred to as water crowfoot!
Rorippa nasturtium-officianale (Nasturtium officianale)(Water Cress)! Rampant but useful for keeping the water clean particularly in a reed bed filtration unit. However it is susceptible to the effects of polluted water.
Rorippa microphylla (Water Cress) Similar to above but larger flowers and less seed.
Sagittaria latifolia (Arrowhead)?!
Sagittaria sagittifolia (Arrowhead) * Very striking foliage but has a bad reputation. It does not seem the sort of plant that would cause a problem and in my experience does not if it is provided with enough competition.
Sagittaria sagittifolia var.leucopetala Flore Pleno is a double version of the arrowhead and is less invasive. Scirpus lacustris (This is the true Bulrush, yes the one with Moses in them.) Beware. Once established, it is very tenacious. !!
Scirpus lacustris tabernaemontani Albescens is the vertical striped version of the bulrush. Slightly more restrained than its wilder cousin but still tenacious and prone to reverting.
Sparganium erectum (Bur-reed) !
Typha angustifolia (Lesser Reedmace) (!) Not as vigorous as T. latifolia
Typha latifolia (Reedmace - most people think of it as the Bulrush) Beware. !!
Typha minima (Least Reedmace) Ideal for the small pond
3.Deep water plants with leaves to the surface.
Nuphar Lutea (Yellow Water Lily) Beware in conservation ponds. !
Nymphaea alba (White Water Lily). This can be all foliage and very little flower, taking over the deep water. I find that a restrained look-a-like is more rewarding like Nymphaea Albatross.
Nymphaea Albatross bred by Marliac in 1910 flowers freely and appreciates any depth of water from 1ft -3ft (30-90cm).
Polygonum amphibium (Amphibious Persicaria) Not very deep water
Ranunculus aquatalis Common Water Crowfoot: There are several very similar varieties that are all very particular about the conditions they grow in.
They partly function as oxygenators from their submerged leaves.
Most varieties of water buttercup or water crowfoot, Ranunculus aquatalis, are happiest in slow running streams and rivers.
4. Floating Plants.
Hydrocharis morsus ranae (Frogbit)
Lemna minor (Duckweed) ! Ducks do love it and once youve got duckweed, the only way to get rid of it completely is to get some ducks.
Duckweed, Lemna minor. When it forms a green mat over the pool, try to persuade the dog it is not a lawn.
Lemna trisulca (Ivy Leafed duck weed) (!)
Stratiotes aloides (Water Soldier). This often called the Norfolk pineapple. The aloides in its name refers to the aloe type of foliage.
5. Submerged Oxygenating Plants.
Callitriche verna (Starwort)
Ceratophyllum demersum (Hornwort)
Chara species (Stonewort) !
Elodea candensis, also known as Anacharis (Canadian Pondweed) ! ?
Elodea crispa (Curly Pondweed same as Lagarosiphon Major) ? Certainly the best oxygenator and easy to control
Groenlandia densa (Opposite leaved Pondweed) Prefers streams to ponds
Houttynia palustris (Water Violet)
Largarosiphon major. See Elodea crispa.
Myriophyllum spicatum (Water Milfoil) ! Likes alkaline conditions.
On the left is Hornwort, Ceratophyllum demersum, on the right is water milfoil, Myriophyllum spicatum. They are easily confused until you touch them or take the them out of the water and you can see the hornwort is much stiffer.
Potamageton species (!) Love calcerious streams esp. P. crispa. (Curled Pondweed) the only one you should dare consider.
Potamageton crispa.
Ranunculus aquatalis (Water Crowfoot) See marginals
Rorippa (Water Cress) See marginals
Choice of fish
Fish are generally of a secondary concern in the conservation pond and so there is generally no environmental pressure from the over-population of fish. Natural triggers control their success and survival and they take their place in the larger scheme of things. However there are fish that are not really suited for the small environment, or like some of the plants, very quickly predominate over any other species, or use up all of resources in a mushrooming population explosion. So the choice of fish needs some consideration to avoid problems. Most of this list featured in my book Designing and Creating Water Gardens as unsuitable fish for ponds, which it is, but it is trimmed to be a list of indigenous fish that people have often considered putting in their ponds.
Barbel: may be predatory and they need plenty of oxygen.
Bream: make water cloudy
Carp : because they are bottom feeders they make the water cloudy. Also keep separate from bream.
Common carp, Cyprinus carpus, a favourite food fish of monks in medieval times when every monastery and abbey had its fish pond.
Chubb : very predatory.
Grass carp: eats plants and in the process make the water cloudy. The grow large and very quickly and also have a tendency to jump out when bored or breeding.
Gudgeon or Stone Loach: Need clean fine gravel substrata, oxygen and moving water. They also bully smaller fish if there are any smaller fish.
Minnows : Need to shoal, will be eaten by larger fish and need plenty of oxygen. They will also get bullied by gudgeon and sticklebacks.
Perch : carnivorous and aggressive, upset other species.
Pike : If you have too many fish of any particular variety, what better natural control is there? It might get rid of that Perch you made the mistake of putting in.
The northern pike, Esox lucius.
Roach and Rudd : These are the only really ideal fish for this environment in my experience. Even so, in ideal conditions, their populations can explode.
Sticklebacks: will harass and damage much larger fish than themselves.
Tench: stir up the mud in some pools as they forage on the bottom for their food, which is mostly caddisfly larvae and bottom dwelling grubs. N.B. Contrary to popular belief, they are not nature's vacuum cleaners, but they may be the doctor fish. The have such a thick mucous membrane that it is possible that sick or damaged fish my rub up against them to get their protective layer replenished.
Trout: need masses of oxygen and gravel bottom. The water needs to be crystal clear as they are visual feeders. They also need 2 metres of depth and should never be mixed with Carp.